Two hours south of Osaka, the mountaintop plateau of Koya-san is home to Oku-no-in, an ancient forest cemetery. There are thousands of graves and markers crowded here among the towering cedar trees, many of them so old that they're completely overgrown with moss and foliage. It's a uniquely atmospheric place, enhanced by the dappled light filtering down through the forest, suffused with stillness, history and nature.








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